nusa dua beach |
Bali is the heaven for the surfer
around the world with only two seasons and beautiful beach around the cost,
make people always interest to come in all years. There is a lot of
international surfing championship is held by ripcurl, around 3 times in a year.
No wonder there is also a lot of local surfer becomes professional surfer.
Swells come from the Indian Ocean, so the surf is on the southern side of the
island and, strangely, on the northwest coast of Nusa Lembongan, where the
swell funnels into the strait between there and the Bali coast. In the dry
season around April to September, the west coast has the best breaks, with the
trade winds coming in from the southeast; this is also when Nusa Lembongan
works best. In the wet season, surf the eastern side of the island, from Nusa
Dua around to Padangbai. If there’s a north wind – or no wind at all – there
are also a couple of breaks on the south coast of Bukit Peninsula.
Balangan
balangan beach |
Go through growing Pecatu Indah
resort and follow the road around to the right past Dreamland to reach the
Balangan warung food stall. Balangan is a fast left over a shallow reef,
unsurfable at low tide, good at mid tide with anything over a 4ft swell; with
an 8ft swell, this can be one of the classic waves.
Balian
balian beach |
There are a few peaks near the
mouth of Sungai Balian, here is often murky because the river can carry a lot
of pollution. Look for the Taman Rekreasi Indah Soka, along the main road, just
west of Lalang-Linggah. The best break here is an enjoyable and consistent
left-hander that works well at mid- to high tide if there’s no wind. North of
Padang and accessible by road, this spot can now get crowded. It’s best at mid tide
with a 6ft swell, when it manufactures short but perfect left-hand barrels.
Canggu
canggu beach |
North of Kuta-Legian-Seminyak, on
the northern extremity of the bay, Canggu has a nice white beach and a few
surfers. The peak breaks over a ‘soft’ rock ledge well, it’s softer than coral. An optimum size
for Canggu is 5ft to 6ft. There’s a good right-hander that you can really hook
into, which works at full tide, and what the surf writer Peter Neely calls ‘a
sucky left ledge that tubes like Ulu watu but without the coral cuts’, which
works from mid tide.
Dreamland (one of my favorite beach)
dreamland |
You have to go through Pecatu
Indah resort and past the water-sucking golf course to reach this spot, which
can also get crowded. At low 5ft swell, this solid peak offers a short, sharp
right and a longer more tubular left. There’s quite a good scene here and cheap
places to stay. Impossible Just north of Padang Padang/opposite, this outside
reef break has three shifting peaks with fast left-hand tube sections that can
join up if the conditions are perfect at low tide, 5ft swell, but don’t stay on
for too long, or you’ll run out of water.
Ketewel & Lebih
ketewel beach |
These two beaches are northeast
of Sanur, and access is easy from the new coast road. They’re both right-hand
beach breaks, which are dodgy at low tide and close out over 6ft. Most likely
there are other breaks along this coast all the way to Padangbai, but they need
a big swell to make them work.
Kuta Area
kuta beach |
For your first plunge into the
warm Indian Ocean, try the beach breaks at Kuta Beach; on full tide go out near
the life-saving club at the southern end of the beach road. At low tide, try
the tubes around Halfway Kuta, probably the best place in Bali for beginners to
practise. Start at the beach breaks if you are a bit rusty. The sand here is
fine and packed hard, so it can hurt when you hit it. Treat even these breaks
with respect. They provide zippering left and right barrels over shallow banks
and can be quite a lot of fun. Further north, the breaks at Legian Beach can be
pretty powerful, with lefts and rights on the sand bars off Jl Melasti and Jl
Padma. At Kuta and Legian you will encounter most of the local Balinese
surfers. And again further north, there are more beach breaks off Seminyak,
such as the Oberoi, near the hotel of the same name. The sea here is fickle and
can have dangerous rip tides – take a friend. For more serious stuff, go to the
reefs south of the beach breaks, about a kilometre out to sea. Kuta Reef, a
vast stretch of coral, provides a variety of waves. You can paddle out in
around 20 minutes, but the easiest way is by boat, for a fee. The main break is
a classic left-hander, best at mid- to high tide with a 5ft to 6ft swell, when
it peels across the reef and has a beautiful inside tube section; the first
part is a good workable wave. Over 7ft it tends to double up and section. The
reef is well suited for backhand surfing. Unfortunately it’s not surfable at
dead-low tide, but you can get out there not long after the tide turns. The
locals can advise you if necessary. It gets very crowded here, but if
conditions are good there’s another, shorter left, 50m further south along the
reef, which usually has fewer surfers.
Medewi
medewi beach |
Further along the south coast of
western Bali is a softer left called Medewi – it’s a point break that can give
a long ride right into the river mouth. This wave has a big drop, which fills
up then runs into a workable inside section. It’s worth surfing if you feel
like something different, but to catch it you need to get up early, because it
gets blown out as the wind picks up. It works best at mid- to high tide with a
6ft swell. There’s accommodation.
Nusa Dua
nusa dua |
During the wet season you should surf on the
east side of the island, where there are some very fine reef breaks. The reef
off the Nusa Dua has very consistent swells. The main break is 1km off the
beach to the south of Nusa Dua – go past the golf course and look for the whole
row of warung and some boats to take you out. There are lefts and rights that
work well on a small swell at low to mid tide. On bigger days, take a longer
board and go further out, where powerful peaks offer long-rides, fat tubes and
lots of variety. Further north, in front of the Club Med, is a fast, barreling
right reef break called Sri Lanka, which works best at mid tide and can handle
swells from 6ft to 10ft.
continued to Part II
Balangan host one of the best wave in Bali and the best Bali surf resort.
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