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| gili meno |
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| gili trawangan |
Just off the northwest coast of
Lombok is a vision of tropical paradise – a trio of tiny coral-fringed islands,
each with white sandy beaches and pellucid water teeming with a kaleidoscopic
array of reef fish. For years the islands of Gili Air, Gili Meno and Gili
Trawangan were a budget-priced stopover for travellers on the Asian trail, but
recently, accommodation options have diversified and now there are luxury
villas and rustic chic bungalows dotted between the simple bambooand- thatch
huts for rent. Delightfully free of cars and motorcycles, the only traffic on
the Gilis is the tinkling cidomo (pony cart) and the odd bicycle. All three
islands have professional scuba diving centres, and the snorkelling is
excellent too. Each Gili has its own character and charm: Trawangan has a big
party scene and Meno is very mellow, with Gili Air falling somewhere between
the two in terms of atmosphere.
There are no banks on the Gilis
and moneychanger exchange rates at the shops and hotels are dire. Credit card
cash advances are available through many dive operators, although a 7%
commission is charged. It’s better to change money in Mataram or Senggigi or
use the ATMs there. Try to bring as many small denomination notes as possible,
as there’s often a problem changing the bigger notes.
There are no police on any of the
Gilis, so report any theft to the island village head if you need help locating
them, or need someone to help you translate, the dive schools are a good point
of contact. If you are on Gili Trawangan, notify Satgas, the community
organisation that runs island affairs, via your hotel or dive center. Satgas
uses its community contacts to resolve problems or track down stolen property
with a minimum of fuss. Touts often meet boats as they land, and they can be
quick to take your luggage, plus you, to the place of their choice. If you want
to stay in a particular place, don’t let a tout convince you that it’s full,
expensive, closed, or doesn’t exist. Incidents are rare, but several foreign
women have experienced sexual harassment and even assault while on the Gilis –
it’s best to walk home in pairs to the quieter parts of the islands. Each
island has a gaggle of local Kuta cowboy–style gigolos who compete to impress
and seduce visiting Western women, and can get very territorial with other
males that they see as competition. Jellyfish are common when strong winds blow
from the mainland, and they can leave a painful rash.
Getting There to gili islands
From Bali, most people either use
the Perama tourist bus and boat service via Padangbai and Senggigi; or, fly to
Mataram and travel on from there. Coming from other parts of Lombok you can
travel via Senggigi there are direct Perama boats to the Gilis from here; via
Bangsal the cheapest route or book a shuttle bus or speed boat. Blue Marlin and
Manta Dive on Gili Trawangan can arrange transfers Rp 125,000 to Rp 250,000 per
person, depending on destination and passenger numbers. All the above use the
idyllic harbour of Teluk Nare, south of Bangsal. Coming by public transport,
catch a bus or bemo to Pemenang, from where it’s about 1km by cidomo it’s only
Rp 3000 to Bangsal harbour. Boat tickets are sold at the Koperasi harbor
office, where the prices are displayed – the public boats roughly 8 am to 5 pm
and the boat don’t leave until full about 18 people. While it can take hours
for the boat to Gili Meno to fill up, you shouldn’t have to wait more than an
hour for the other two islands. The one-way fares at the time of research were
Rp 10.000 to Gili Air, Rp 12.000 to Gili Meno and Rp 16.000 to Gili Trawangan,
though expect steep price rises because of escalating fuel costs. Special
charters can also be organized in Bangsal. All boats pull up on the beach when
they get to the Gilis, so you’ll have to wade ashore with your luggage.
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